Weekend Escape to Verlorenkloof
Mpumalanga – South Africa
A tranquil weekend in the heart of the trout triangle of South Africa
Who can resist a tranquil getaway in the country with friends? Definitely not us, even though we had just returned from our road trip to the Western and Northern Cape a week before. The Mac’s have invited us before, a few years ago and kindly invited us again this year. It was an ideal opportunity to relax with them and other friends that we had not seen for a while, because of lockdown levels.
Verlorenkloof Estate
On the Welgedacht Farm near Lydenburg is a home away from home estate– some might even say better. Verlorenkloof offers accommodation on a 1600ha working farm. It is situated in an isolated valley along the eastern escarpment of the province of Mpumalanga in the heart of the trout triangle.
The Crocodile River creates a natural border around the estate, thereby offering a peaceful setting for a getaway, whether it be for a weekend (make that a long weekend) or a couple of weeks.
The estate is positioned in a malaria free area. The biodiverse landscape sweeps across grassland and wetlands up to forested kloofs of the Steenkampsberg and Dullstroom highlands. This offers an ideal place for a variety of outdoor activities for young and old.
Accommodation
There are 23 free standing beautiful stone, thatch and wooden crofts, spread throughout the estate. Each croft is set in an ideal position apart from each other and offers a relative degree of privacy, each with its own magnificent view either towards the mountains or the valley. The sizes of the crofts vary and offer 3, 4 or 5 bedrooms, allowing 6 to 10 people to sleep in each spacious croft, depending on its configurations.
The crofts can be hired on a once off basis, or via timeshare as well as ownership syndicates.
One of the crofts at Verlorenkloof
Catering
Most people self-cater and bring their own food. However, at the main lodge reception area there is a Foodspace Deli and Coffee shop where you can enjoy a light meal or order prepared meals in advance at the deli to have in the comfort of your own croft.
Verlorenkloof has an artisan dairy, producing natural yoghurts, cheeses and cream from full fat milk through straining by hand and is worth sampling some.
Foodspace Deli sells these dairy products including their milk. Along with other produce, they also offer freshly baked bread, farm eggs, a delicious variety of homemade sauces, jams, pickles, rusks and biscuits. We ordered a traditional homemade Malva pudding and custard to have at our croft. Really scrumptious!
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History of Verlorenkloof
Verlorenkloof Estate has an interesting archaeological heritage in the form of ruins of stone walls and lies in the epicentre of an extensive Iron Age complex.
The estate has more than 120 recorded sites of stone walled homesteads or Bokoni structures with cattle tracks and terraces built by the Koni people, a peaceful tribe that lived there many years ago.
The stone circles around the mountains and hills of Mpumalanga were originally thought of as more recent but insignificant cattle kraals. After thorough research, they found the remains of these circles dated back to around 1500-1830 AD and were of important archaeological value. They also discovered they were linked by long stone passages that stretched over 10 000 square kilometres from Ohrigstad to Carolina.
The intricate network of structures is unfortunately not recognised as a heritage site by the authorities but it is one of South Africa’s lesser known but most extensive and extraordinary historic legacies.
A book called Forgotten World is available if you are interested in reading about it. The book was co-authored by Peter Delius (historian) and Tim Maggs and Alex Schoeman (archaeologists).
Ruins of stone walls
What to do at Verlorenkloof
There are numerous outdoor activities to keep you occupied if you feel energetic. Enquire at reception regarding bookings, availability and cost.
Trout fishing
Verlorenkloof Estate offers trout fishing on a 6 km stretch of the upper Crocodile River. The upstream catchment area produces a perennial flow of water for the trout to breed naturally in the river. There are 6 still water trout dams and on the estate where you can practise your flyfishing skills, whether you are a novice or an expert.
Horse riding
Guided trails on sure-footed Nooitgedacht ponies will take you across the valley to the foothills of the estate and provide you with a relaxing ride.
Hiking
Well-marked trails through 5 eco-zones will offer you scenic rambles or strenuous walks and overnight hikes over a network of 42 kilometres. You can choose whether you want to do long or short hikes.
We have done a few of the shorter hikes, the Waterfall Walk and Robin’s Kloof. Both are relatively easy and well marked, but certain sections include a fair amount of rock hopping.
Robin’s Kloof
It is advisable to tell someone where you are going and how long you are expected to be away. Accidents have happened and it is easy to sprain an ankle on uneven ground.
Mountain biking
The long and vast dirt roads around Verlorenkloof and Welgedacht Farm are quiet, safe and free to use at your own risk. It is however advisable to carry a cellular phone and a map. Alternatively enquire at reception about guided trails and mountain routes.
Birding
White fronted bee-eater
Birding is popular at Verlorenkloof with over 300 species on the estate. There are 6 endemic to the area. 3 species listed in the South African Red Data Book, the Peregrine Falcon, Southern Bald Ibis and the Broad-tailed Warbler, are all seen regularly.
African Paradise flycatcher
We did a spot of birdwatching. That is, Paul and I, non-birders, love looking at them. Our identification skills are sometimes somewhat phoney. We had four experts in our midst that gave us good tips and pointers to set us on the righteous path in spotting the difference between a penguin and an ostrich (naturally neither of which of course are found at Verlorenkloof – even we know that!).
Red necked spurfowl
They took it a step further and pointed out often there were not only one of each species but sometimes there could be up to 10 different ones with only slight distinctions in their markings. No wonder we aren’t twitchers! Far too much info to lodge into our brains.
Cape Rock Trush
As for taking photos of them, these busy little creatures don’t sit still at all, so how on earth can we capture a photo of them to study later and assist us in identifying them?
Chorister Robin Chat
The birds were very good at posing from different angles – very briefly. I would grab my little camera to focus on them, only to have them flit away at great speed! Great blurry photos of grass or leaves and a fraction of tail feathers.
Familiar Chat
Botany
The accumulation of all the species at Verlorenkloof will most likely interest any botanists and plant lover. There are 140 tree species included in the 452 plant species that have been identified in the area. Many of the trees are marked to help you identify them.
Archaeology
The launch of the book, Forgotten World tells the story of the Koni people in the Bokoni region. One can book a weekend to learn more about the discovery of Verlorenkloof’s archaeological heritage.
Swimming
In the summer months it can get very hot at Verlorenkloof. Fortunately there is a rock pool that is filled from a spring where you can cool off.
Picnic
One can enjoy a picnic at the picnic sites next to the Crocodile River.
Other activities
It is possible to drive to Dullstroom, approximately 78 km or an hour and ten minutes away around the escarpment, for lunch or explore the escarpment and other Lowveld attractions, but quite frankly, it is rather pleasant to sit with your feet up, unwind and relax at your croft whilst enjoying the view. I never got tired of looking at the mountain as the light changed.
Thanks Macs!! It was a great long-weekend.
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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We turned off the R61 outside Cradock onto a gravel road and drove about 2 kilometres to Mountain Zebra National Park gate. Or rather we rattled and shuddered. Our teeth chattered, but not from cold. I might even have bit my tongue – literally.