Nthakeni Bush Camp – Tranquil off the grid indulgence
Nkotswi, Pafuri – Limpopo - South Africa
Off the beaten track nature lovers hidden gem of the Limpopo
Nthakeni Bush & River Camp, an off the grid getaway destination with accommodation or camping facilities
We’ve exited the most northern part of the Kruger National Park and Parfuri gate disappears in our rear view mirror. The digital detox in South Africa’s most famous game reserve has been bliss and we are not opposed to continuing in a similar manner. We’ve heard of an off the grid bush camp not far from where we are.
Nthakeni Bush & River Camp is just a short drive away, approximately 5 km. We are excited to test out this off the grid, off the beaten track camp for serious nature lovers.
A few kilometres further a sign with the unmissable blue and brown Kingfisher lures us down a bumpy road towards a low-lying bridge. With ominous billowing clouds above our heads, we know that bridge signifies a point of no return at least for a few days if the cloud bursts like it did a couple of days ago. The evidence is there with large trees going no further as they are wedged against the concrete.
Nkotsi village
Majestic Baobabs
Parked next to a baobab
Not only will we be stranded but we wonder if our solar panels will charge the battery in our caravan enough if the clouds remain. We need to keep our fridge and freezer running to keep some meat frozen.
We brush off the thought as we cross the bridge and follow the next sign for Nthakeni Bush & River Camp. A few more signs guide our way as they pop up along the rumbling rough and stony ground. Not ideal for a tiny sedan vehicle, but fortunately we manage it with ease with our Pajero.
Naturally juxtaposed giant baobabs, Africa’s iconic tree of life spur us on.
A final Kingfisher sign points us towards the gate on our left where there is a bell that we ring to signal our arrival. Kobus and Annelize Venter welcome us with true South African warm heartedness into their bush camp.
Kobus directs us onto Mushato Campsite where we park our caravan. The site is completely off the grid with a fully equipped private kitchen with a gas stove. Paraffin lamps hang inside to light our way at night.
There are two private toilets and open-air showers on the site which offer us the opportunity to shower under the stars. The hot water is provided by a donkey that Kobus lights early enough to heat the water before we require it.
Both Kobus and Annelize are kind and hardworking souls. They are both good with their hands and know how to run a campsite. The evidence is in Nthakeni which they have built from scratch. It is an ongoing project and Kobus tells us that he wishes to build more campsites on the other side of the stream that flows next to Mushato campsite.
The bush camp is spotless and for an off the beaten track campsite, they have thought of everything you would require making your stay pleasant.
They even recycle which for such a remote area is impressive although necessary.
As for our two solar panels, even with the cloudy weather they were adequate to keep our battery charged in our caravan and our meat stayed frozen, except of course the lovely steak which we planned to cook that evening.
I will add that Annelize and Kobus were in the process of ‘mopping up’ after 100mm of rain within a couple of hours and even so, Nthakeni looked impeccable under the circumstances.
Ha-Makuya area and it’s people
Nthakeni is tucked against the bank of the Mutale River and is situated in a tribal trust area that borders on to Kruger National Park and Makuya Game Reserve.
Nkotswi is the closest local rural village which is ruled by a musanda (captain) and is part of the greater Ha-Makuya area, which in turn is ruled by a greater chief.
The Shangaan and Venda tribes are friendly and guests are encouraged to visit the village. Please drive with caution and when interacting with the residents please treat them with respect as you are on their land.
Nature
Although the Mutale river runs throughout the year, it can be dry for lengthy periods of drought. There are crocodiles in the Mutale river. Although the area is arid, it is a high risk malaria area therefore it is advised to take malaria prophylaxis. The winters can be pleasant with exceptionally hot summers.
There are no large wild animals in bush camp, although the fence of the Kruger National Park which it borders on is often broken and game like elephant and buffalo can and do sometimes enter the area surrounding the camp.
A beautiful variety of trees can be seen in and around the camp and it is a birder’s paradise, with more than 450 species that have been identified.
There are spiders, snakes, scorpions, bats and other insects to satisfy anyone who has an interest in small critters, whether amateur or professional. It is advised to wear closed shoes.
Nthakeni Bush and River lodge
A hidden gem, off the grid and off the beaten track in the north east of Limpopo, this camp is definitely for nature lovers. Here you will find true peace and tranquillity of the African bush with an occasional cow bell being heard (which I think is actually around goats’ necks).
Nthakeni means Caring for the people and Annelize and Kobus do just that by providing work for the community. Furthermore they teach the community crafts such as crochet work and painting.
Additional accommodation available at Nthakeni
If you don’t have a tent or caravan but you would still like to experience an off the grid lodge there are other accommodation options available.
Mupani Tented Camp has 3 safari tent rooms sleeping 2 persons each with a fully equipped kitchen, separate toilets and showers. This camp is suitable for a family or group of 4 to 6 people.
Mupani Tented Camp
Mufhanda Campsite is a separate campsite for you to pitch your own tent. This camp has a fully equipped kitchen, private toilet and an open air shower. This camp is adequate for two people.
Mufhanda Campsite
Mushato Campsite where we camped, is suitable for your own tent or caravan with a fully equipped private kitchen, two private toilets and two private open air showers. This camp is suitable for 2 to 4 people.
Muvhuyu Cottage is a cosy thatched cottage for 2 guests. It is fully equipped for self-catering. It has a spacious bedroom with a double bed and an on-suite bathroom with shower, basin and toilet. The kitchen with a gas stove with oven and fridge/freezer combination.
Mulala Family Cottage is a thatched cottage suitable for up to 4 guests. The main bedroom has a double bed and the second bedroom has 2 single beds. The bathroom has a shower and basin, with separate toilet. The kitchen is well equipped with gas stove/oven and fridge/freezer combination.
Update on accommodation at Nthakeni:
Since our visit in 2020 more campsites have been added. Take a look here.
Christoff from Get out, GO! has a video review of Nthakeni Bush & River Camp. It is worth a look. Spacious stands along the river, under baobabs. A true getaway for nature lovers in a remote corner of South Africa and ideal to explore the northern parts of the Kruger National Park.
There is no electricity at Nthakeni Bush and River Camp. Solar lighting or oil lamps are supplied and water is heated by a wood-fired boiler (donkey).
The cottages and tented camp are serviced on a daily basis, except for weekends. Should you require a laundry service it can be arranged at an additional fee.
We self-catered but there is a restaurant. Booking is essential as the lodge is remote and therefore supplies need to be brought in ahead of time.
There is a swimming pool for the unbearably hot days.
If you are lucky (or unlucky if you want to get away from the digital world) you might get a cellular signal from MTN, but why bother. It is a great place to unwind, relax, have a digital detox and forget about the stress of city life.
Things to do and places to explore nearby:
Makuya Game Reserve. Speak to Kobus and Annelize for more information.
Kruger National Park. Visit the northern part of the Kruger National Park. Enter at Parfuri gate which is only about 5 kilometres away from Nthakeni.
Pafuri border post to Mozambique is approximately 40 kilometres away if you would like to cross there.
Get back to nature. If you love nature, this is a great opportunity to stargaze, birdwatch and look for insects.
Hike, cycle or 4x4. The bush surrounding the camp can be explored by 4X4 vehicle, hiking or cycling. For more information, chat to Kobus and Annelize.
We spent one night at Nthakeni and we could happily have spent another night or even a week. The rain stayed away, so we weren’t stranded and forced to stay longer. Not that I would have objected to that.
If you are wanting to experience a the peaceful solitude of a remote corner of the African bush, I can highly recommend this bush camp.
Where is Nthakeni?
We travelled from Parfuri gate in the Kruger National Park. However, if you are looking for an alternative route to Nthakeni Bush & River Camp from the south, you take the N1 and drive past Polokwane and over the Southpansberg. Turn right at the R525 towards Tshipise Mineral hot springs and head towards Parfuri.
A few kilometres before Parfuri Gate there is an unmissable sign of a Kingfisher with the name Nthakeni Bush & River Camp. Turn right and follow the signs on an untarred road.
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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