Why should you visit Koh Phi Phi (and why not?)
Koh Phi Phi Don – Phuket – Thailand
Koh Phi Phi, picture perfect breathtaking islands. Are they worth visiting?
Lam Tong Beach
Questions regularly asked when people want to visit Phi Phi Island:
Is it worth going to Phi Phi Island?
When is the best time to visit Koh Phi Phi?
Is Koh Phi Phi too touristy?
Is Koh Phi Phi a party island?
Is Koh Phi Phi overrated?
Is Koh Phi Phi safe?
What is the weather like at Koh Phi Phi?
What to do on Phi Phi Island.
Is Phi Phi island the ultimate romantic paradise?
Can you take your baby to Phi Phi island?
Is Phi Phi Island closed?
I’m not going to answer each question individually but if you read through this blog, it may give you an honest insight into Koh Phi Phi and why should you visit Koh Phi Phi - or not.
Ferries - Phuket
In July 2014 we spent four days on Koh Phi Phi Don, otherwise known as Phi Phi Island. A few years before that we’d visited Phuket in April and took a day trip to Phi Phi where we spent a couple of hours.
On our second visit to Thailand we had a few factors influencing our visit to Phuket and Phi Phi.
We couldn’t change our dates, because we had prearranged to meet family in Phuket for a few days for special birthday celebrations.
There was political unrest in Thailand at the time. Would it affect us? We were only going to Phuket and Phi Phi and not Bangkok where they had curfews. We watched the news and read reports and because we were only going to the islands we felt it would be worth the risk.
It was South West Monsoon season as well and we were concerned what the weather would be like. Not that it put us off. We decided to do some research and chose a beach that should be relatively sheltered and hoped we had made the right decision.
Phuket
It rained when we landed at the airport and continued to do so periodically but there were days when we also had lovely sunshine. Most times the seas were murky and rough due to the monsoons but it was still hot and humid. We had a great time, which will be covered in a later blog.
Where is Koh Phi Phi and how do you get to it.
The Phi Phi archipelago lies in Phang Nga Bay, between the southern tip of Phuket Island and the Krabi coast.
The archipelago consists of six islands: Koh Phi Phi Don, Koh Phi Phi Leh, Koh Mai Phai (Bamboo Island), Koh Yung (Mosquito Island), Koh Bida Noi and Koh Bida Nai. Most of the islands are not much more than large limestone rocks protruding out of the sea.
Koh Phi Phi Don is the largest inhabited island of the six and gets thousands of tourists a day – some for a couple of hours and some staying for a few nights. It is often called the party island of Thailand.
Koh Phi Phi Leh is the second largest island that has the infamous Maya Bay where the gorgeous hunk Leonardo DiCaprio played the lead role in the film The Beach.
The islands are part of Hat Nopparat Thara-Ko Phi Phi National Park
Map:
Is Koh Phi Phi a party island, Thai paradise or a tourist trap?
During our previous visit to Phuket we had a touristy lunch on Phi Phi Don just off Ton Sai Beach and spent a short while wandering around where the restaurants, bars, shops and backpacker accommodation was, till our speedboat took us back to Phuket.
Ton Sai Beach
Even so, we wanted to spend a little more time on Koh Phi Phi Don and were hoping to dive and snorkel. We didn’t want to stay at the busy touristy hub where all the 20 something backpacker party goers are. That was not for baby boomers like us.
Our eldest son had stayed on the north-east side of the island before. There is a small beach with a cluster of hotels. We chose to stay at the Holiday Inn for four nights.
By ferry from Phuket
The only way to get to Phi Phi is by boat, no matter which direction. We took a ferry from Phuket and you can imagine how thrilled I was that the sea was quite flat but even so, I took a seasick tablet. I go rather green around the gills when I’m on a boat and you never know how long the sea stays flat.
It was hot in the sun on the ferry. Sunscreen was definitely a necessity if you stood outside. There is limited seating in the shade or inside.
Maya Bay
On the way the captain of our ferry took us on a short sightseeing detour near the entrance of ‘The Beach’ location at Phi Phi Ley. Over the loudspeakers we heard ‘Do photo! Do photo!’ which of course we did!
You will not believe the amount of boats that were there. Apparently Phi Phi Ley is now closed until middle of 2021. I’ll explain later in my blog.
We docked at the jetty near Ton Sai Beach at Phi Phi Don which is on the southern side of the sandbar that joins two massive limestone rocks that make Phi Phi island. We found there was no transfer arranged for us to our hotel which was on the north eastern side so we had to take a long tail boat. You might ask why.
As far as I know the paved roads that were rebuilt after the 2004 tsunami mainly cover most of the Ton Sai Bay and Loh Dalum Bay area. There is also a small section of roads on other parts of the island but they don’t seem to interlink. If they do, it is primarily with a narrow road or footpath. We certainly weren’t going to drag our bags over limestone rocks, or swing Tarzan style through tropical forests.
Back to the long tail boats… I quite like these quirky boats, with their protruding engines and rudders. The boatsman looked friendly, although he couldn’t speak English. It wasn’t long before we were on our way. About 2 minutes into our journey we slowed down and pulled up next to another boat. This was not where we were meant to be.
It was clearly not a boat for tourists and it was definitely not our hotel. We know what a Holiday Inn looks like! Washing was hanging everywhere on the boat. A chap (who could in all likelihood have been a pirate) dragged us closer with a gaff. At least it wasn’t a peg leg.
We’d heard many horror stories where we’ve been told about scams and how tourists have been ripped off and they all sprang to mind. We were concerned that they would hold us to ransom. There was even a niggling thought that we could be taken hostage.
It turned out they needed to fill the tank with fuel and this boat must have been the ‘filling station’. Once again we were on our way and soon we were lulled into a genuine sense of security. Holiday brochure views and vistas surrounded us as we cruised to our piece of paradise (or so we hoped).
Lam Tong Beach
Lam Tong Beach
Holiday Inn is on Lam Tong Beach. There is no permanent jetty so a small mobile one was wheeled into the shallow water for us to disembark without getting our feet wet – not that I would have objected – but I felt like royalty. We were greeted with cool, moist scented cloths and a chilled welcoming drink. Is that not paradise?
We had arrived too early to go to our room. We could leave our bags near reception and strolled around, getting acquainted with the area. At the hotel restaurant we had another refreshing drink and lunch. Afterwards we were collected by golf cart and whizzed off to our room.
Stepping through the door, I headed straight for the balcony. If it wasn’t for the lovely semi-private beach below calling us, I could have stayed there forever. That picture you have in your mind what a tropical beach and turquoise sea should look like? Yip, it’s that one.
View from our room at the Holiday Inn, Phi Phi island
We walked down steep steps to the beach. Just as well, because hopefully it would melt away a few calories from the delicious food we ate. Buffet breakfast at the hotel was delicious and was included in our package.
We found a lovely restaurant named Jasmin next to the gypsy village. We ate a few dinners and some lunches there. The food was typically Thai, wholesome, tasty and reasonably priced. There were always plenty of patrons which is a good sign that the food is fresh.
Snorkelling and scuba diving
Although the beach and water were idyllic, the water wasn’t crystal clear because of the fine sand but the tepid tranquil water was ideal for staying in hours on end. We spent many hours snorkelling in front of the hotel which had its own ‘house reef’. The territorial disputes of the aquatic creatures kept us entertained while they chased possible predators away or ate and cleaned their area.
View to the west near Holiday Inn
I decided not to scuba dive and risk getting seasick but Paul was dying to go deeper underwater. I am pleased he went, as he had his first sighting of a seahorse. I was fortunate enough to see some photos but I was a tad green with envy that I hadn’t joined him. Still, I had fun snorkeling and swimming in front of the hotel.
We hired a longboat excursion for a few hours the following day and snorkelled at Mosquito and Bamboo islands close by.
The coral was beautiful, although there were some areas that had been destroyed. Numerous schools of various species of fish swam around me. It felt like I was swimming in a giant fish tank.
Oriental garden lizard
Big boat in background - our ferry back to Phuket
Four nights spent on Phi Phi island flew past and it was time to take the ferry back to Phuket. The crossing was not as smooth as our trip to Phi Phi. The only seating area was inside and they handed out seasick tablets to anyone that felt like they needed it.
I popped my pills as usual and I was delighted not to feel queasy. I had empathy for those that suffered. It has happened often enough to me and I knew exactly how that felt.
I am glad we went to Phi Phi Island. We had a magnificent few days there and the position of our accommodation was perfect for us. It was a far cry from the busy night life on the other side of the island which fortunately didn’t bug us at all. If you’re interested in that, then this special beach is not ideal for you.
Hot Tip:
At Phi Phi Leh if you think you can dip your toes in the sand and sea just like Leonardo DiCaprio did, think again. Due to so many boats taking tourists causing pollution of various degrees and manners, the area is under severe environmental strain. A decision was made around 2018 to keep Maya Bay closed to tourists until the middle of 2021 to give the area a fair chance to recover.
Paradise lost and hopefully paradise found
I am aware that we were part of the invasion of tourists and even though we would certainly have made an impact no matter how small, can you imagine thousands of tourists on a relatively small section of island? It is no wonder that this piece of paradise is under strain. I hope that the reefs and environment will be restored to some of its former beauty. It would be sad to lose it. I think it is a great idea to close certain areas from time to time to give it a chance to recover.
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About the Author
ALMA VAN AS | ROAMING FOX
Alma is a South African travel blogger and writer. She hopes to inspire you with facts and fables about her adventures, road trips and international travel.
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I think we would be hard pressed to find someone that doesn’t like butterflies. Who wouldn’t be enchanted?
Beautiful, fragile and gentle, flitting from bloom to bloom.